JT’s family has a summer home in Noirmoutier en l'Ile in the Bay of Biscay on the western Atlantic coast of France which I had the privilege of visiting. While it may be in the new Pays de la Loire region now, historically this area was part of Brittany.
I could imagine my friend growing up here in the summers riding a bike through the maze of salt marshes lined with blackberry brambles and coming home with telltale purple smudges on his lips. I found a bicycle in the garage and rode everyday rain or shine discovering a new beach or getting happily lost amongst the bright white mounds of salt.
Adding to the authenticity, the only language I heard spoken was French. The main food offerings were crepes and moule mariniere. And then local specialties like the Vendee brioche. You order oysters here by a number rating, the bigger the number, the smaller the oyster.
If you can come the first Saturday of May for the Bonnotte festival, you’ll be treated to hand harvested potatoes eaten with local salt and lashings of butter.
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