Mind-Blowing Finger Strength Study with Emil Abrahamsson and Dr. Keith Baar
Emil Abrahamsson and Dr Keith Baar join to discuss a brand new study on finger strength, including:
- Overview of Emil's viral "No Hang" protocol (aka, Abra-hangs)
- The scientific paper that gave Emil and his brother the idea for the Abra-hang experiment
- Accessing thousands of points of climber data
- Measuring three groups ("just climb", "max hang", and "no hang")
- The shocking results of the finger strength study
- What the results of the study might mean for how climbers train finger strength
- Abra-hang protocol for injured and healthy climbers
- Goals for more studies and exploring other variables
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- PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.
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Follow along on Instagram and YouTube @thestruggleclimbingshow
Watch Emil's video recap of the finger strength study over on his YT channel.
Dr. Keith Baar's Article: https://sportsmedicine-open.springeropen.com/articles/10.1186/s40798-024-00793-7
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This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.
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And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that’s done. But hey, if you’re a human that’s actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I’ll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!